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2025-03-30

2025年3月27日 平溪子山~畝畝山~石硿子瀑布再訪 Revisit to Mt. Pingxizi-shan, Mumu-shan and Shikongzi waterfall

畝畝山山頂 Summit of Mumu-shan

新北市平溪區は、基隆河の源流流域であり、多くの山を抱える。筆者は十数年前からたびたび訪れている。ここしばらくは遠ざかっていたが、以前訪れた平溪子山や畝畝山の山並みを行く登山道がボランティア(聯合艦隊) に整備されたことを知って、再び訪れた。歩いたルートは以前と同じ部分が多いが、一部は今回初めてのセクションもある。数年前の訪問時と比べると、道は広く草が刈られ、多くの急坂などでロープが取り付けられて、よい道が出現していた。休みことなく続くボランティア活動に感謝する。

反時計回り回遊 Counter-clockwise circular hiking

3月も下旬に入り、しばらく続いた寒波がさって良い天気が数日続いた。気温も上がり、当日は30度を超えるような陽気であった。そのため、体が慣れていないため、疲労も増した。高温は、たしかに運動に影響を与える。そのため、休みを多くとった。昼食時の長い休憩、畝畝山山頂ではちょっと昼寝もした。下って石硿子瀑布でも長めの休憩をした。萬寶洞バス停から歩き始めた最初のセクションは、まだ手入れがされておらずその道をあきらめ、106号国道を歩いて別の登山口から入山した。結果的に、その部分は午後に登り返して歩くつもりであったが、その必要もなくなったので、そのまま萬寶洞バス停へ戻った。今回は、過去に3,4回記述しているので、英語で記述する。

@畝畝山山頂
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A major river of the Northern Taiwan, Jilong River (基隆河), originates from mountains in Pingxi District (平溪區) of New Taipei Manucipality (新北市). A long range of mountains rises on its left (north) bank, comprising of peaks like Mt. Wufen-shan (五分山), Mt. Jiangzilao-shan (姜子寮山) and Mt. Sifenwei-shan (四分尾山). On its right (south) bank, in contrast, large tributaries flow in and divide mountains into a few blocks.  Our destination of this hike is one of such mountain blocks, having Mt. Pingxizi-shan (平溪子山) and Mt. Mumu-shan (畝畝山). I have been to these peaks several times in the past. I came to know that in the recent months a group of volunteers entered this area and made nice maintenance jobs on several trails there. This motivated me to visit the two peaks again.

Blue line indicates the unbroken ridge on the left (north) bank of the Jilong river

Compared with my last visit a few years ago, the trails were indeed in good shape. Grasses and bushes were cut clean and wide, fallen tree trunks were hacked apart for easy passage and ropes have been fixed at many locations for safety. This makes me feel very grateful for their work. I believe that going there and walking along the trails is one of the ways to express our appreciation for them. I encourage more hikers to do the same.

Good weather lasted for a few days after the unseasonal cold spell had left. Good weather brought high temperature as well. On the day of our hike the temperature reached 30 degree, which made us more tired. Our body has not yet been prepared for such a high temperature environment.  So we had long rests to recuperate, even a short nap on the summit of Mumu-shan, which in fact was very comfortable.

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Alight at Wanbaodong bus stop

We took an early #795 bus from Muzha (木柵), Taipei for our starting point Wanbaodong (萬寶洞) and arrived there 8:20. The travel took us about an hour. You can come here by train, but this bus service is more convenient. My original plan was to enter the mountain via a trail near this bus stop. As the map indicates, we went up to a place where a new religious building called Shifen Guandicheng (十分關帝城) stood. I remember that a construction project was under way and this is the one finally completed. 

Shifenguandicheng building
unmaintained trail
A little search yielded a narrow trail going up, with some old ropes and direction markers. But its condition was very poor. Obviously this trail has not been maintained for many years. It would take too much efforts and time to keep on this trail, so we decided to go back to Wanbaodong bus stop for another trail.

Waling down #106 highway
trail head by bridge
Baiyingshi trail
Another trail is a couple of kilometers away along the highway #106. We walked down the road to get to its head. At 9:25 we reached the trail head by Baiyingshi bridge (白鶯石橋). This trail is called Baiyingshi Baojia trail (白鶯石保甲路) and is one of many so-called historical trails that were disused after motor ways took over their original role and lately revived for hiking.  This particular trail was supposedly used for coal industries back then. There are abandoned coal mines near this trail.

Hacked-off trunk
passing through narrow gap
The trail has many ups and downs going along the side of mountain.  Large fallen trunks were cut apart, which was done by volunteers. At one point it passes a very narrow gap between rock walls, which is called Moruxiang (摸乳巷 breast touching alley). Climbing to the highest point and down we arrived at a ruin of old house complex (elevation 310m)  at 9:57. There remain only broken stone walls and steps. Trees are all over and obscure the size of the complex that belonged to the Yan family (嚴家). Compared with other stone house ruins that you come across in the mountains, this one is indeed large. It must have had something to do with coal industries of the time, otherwise it would not have been financially sustainable.

Ruin of Yan family house
Junction on the ridge
After a short rest at the old house ruin, we left for our first peak Mt. Pingxizi-shan. The trail is rather moderate in incline. We reached a junction on the ridge at 10:28. If we had come along the originally planed route, we would have been here from the other direction. We take right and proceed along the ridge trail. A 10-minute short climb brought us to the summit (elev. 420m).  The summit is rather small and surrounded by trees. Since leaves are not yet fully grown on tree branches, it feels pretty bright.

Summit of Pingxizi-shan
author at summit
Same location 5 years ago

Grasses are widely cut out

At 10:55 we advance along the ridge trail. Grasses and bushes have been widely wiped out. Volunteers are using electric weed cutters nowadays, so the result of the mechanized work is pretty good. Our trail hits Taiwan Power's maintenance trail (台電保線路) and we take left at the junction. Our second destination, Mt. Mumu shows up high and afar in front of us through tree branches. There is a long way to go!

Mumu-shan is visible through tree branches
Clean and wide trail
Going down...



...and up again

Rest point under the tower

The trail faithfully follows the contour of the ridge line, throwing at us a lot of ups and downs.  At 11:25 we have come to a electric tower and have a rest under it. By this time of the day the temperature is pretty high and it feels good in the shade. Occasional breeze feels pretty comfortable. We had lunch and rest until 12:15, 50 minutes of break!

View of Mt. Fengtoujian (left, 峰頭尖) and Mt. Zhongyangjian(中央尖)
Going down first

A biggest climb on the ridge trail is just ahead of us. We first plunge to the bottom and have to climb back for 130 meters in altitude. The grade is pretty steep and many new ropes have been fixed along the steep stretchs.  We kept on climbing and reached the summit of Mumu-shan (elev. 570m) at 12:46. We were happy to be here as we had no more big climb. It was still early so we had a long rest of 50 minutes again. We even had a nap in the shade on the summit!

Passing the bottom
Steep climb-back...
...getting closer to the summit...
... then made it to the summit!
Nice nap on the summit
Steep grade on this side too

After the rest we were refreshed and ready for the long way down. The trail is steep on this side too. At 13:40 we came to a junction where the trail splits into two, one going along the ridge and one down in a valley. We took the latter. The trail first went rather leniently down. In ten or so minutes running water showed up in the bottom. Further down we hit a small water fall. This stretch of the trail has a ladder and many ropes to secure safe passage on slippery wet rock surfaces. Soon after the this section showed up a large stone house ruin on a high platform. I wonder what this house was for because it looks out of place.




Down to see running water


Bamboos are widely cut out
Climbing down rocky section by a small waterfall

Getting through rocky section
Another stone wall ruin
Junction with Shikongzi trail
At 14:12 we reached the junction with Shikongzi historical trail (石硿子古道) at the bottom of the valley. A moss covered bridge quietly spans over a wide river nearby. We took left and wend down along the river.  Twelve minutes walk on the old trail brought us to Shikongzi waterfall (石硿仔瀑布). This water fall is not that high, but provides a good resting point, particularly on hot days. Small fishes are swimming in the front pool of the waterfall.

Moss covered bridge of the Shikongzi trail
Strolling along the trail
Shikongzi waterfall

Trail going alongside Huiyaoxi river (灰窯溪)
After 30 minutes of rest, we left the waterfall for the final leg of our hike.  The trail further goes along the river and meets the trail from Mumu-shan coming down along the ridge. Further down the trail passes by a large disused bridge. This is one of legacies of past coal industry. It was one of mining facilities belonging to Taihe Mining Company (台和煤礦公司) at that time.  The trail came to an end and met a paved road at 15:13.

Junction with the trail down from Mumu-shan
Bridge pillars

End of dirt trail, fence is to keep wild animals from going out

Strolling down the road

There is another three kilometers to walk. It would be very uncomfortable to walk along a paved road on such a warm day. But it is good that by this time of a day most parts are in shade. We leisurely walked down and came to a bridge that leads to Wangbaodong bus stop. It was 15:45. The next #795 bus would come only around 16:40. We would have a long time to kill at a bus stop, so we had a rest again at benches nearby the bridge. This place is better than the bus stop shelter that is facing busy traffic.  We were back at Wanbaodong bus stop at 16:20 and in twenty or so minutes our #795 bus came along.

Our bus has come

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Our activity lasted 7 hours and a half. The distance covered was approximately 11 kilometers with a total ascent of 570 meters. The route physical index is 20. On this hike we had very long rests, totaling more than two hours and a half. The unexpected heat was one of the reasons for such long rest. Nonetheless we covered all  the intended points and had fun time, which is most important!


2025-03-29

2025年3月23日 宜蘭縣橋板湖山~梗枋山 海際の低山ハイキング

海際の橋板湖山、沖には龜山島
宜蘭縣は台湾島の北東部、台北から山を越えた太平洋側にある県だ。北部には、新北市と境界を成す雪山山脈の末端部分がある。筆者は過去たびたび訪れている場所でもある。山の上から海が望める山並みは、とても魅力的だ。そうした山並みの中で、過去に訪れた叢雲山のさらに海側に盛り上がる橋板湖山は、正直過去にはその存在すら注意を払わなかった。最近、この不人気山の道が、ボランティアによって手入れが行われたことがきっかけで、今回の山行となった。

北から南へと縦走
標高は300mと少しで、背後の叢雲山などに比べると半分もない。しかし海際にあるので、海岸からみるとそこそこの存在である。大海には、龜山島が浮かぶ。大溪駅から海岸線沿いの道を進み、台湾電力保線路(送電鉄塔メンテのための道)を経由して橋板湖山を登頂した。下山は、ボランティアによる整備された道を下り、梗枋山山頂を踏んだ後龜山駅近くに降りた。近くには更新漁港があり、海鮮料理店に立ち寄り食事をして帰京した。行動時間は4時間と少しで、また食事もするという、楽しいハイキングであった。

@橋板湖山山頂(Lさん撮影)
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大溪駅のホームから橋板湖山が見える
台北を7時34分発の区間電車(各駅停車)で出発する。宜蘭のこの地はやはり時間を要する。約2時間を費やし、9時半に大溪駅に到着した。今日は快晴の好天気。プラットフォームに降りると、まぶしい大海原が眼前に広がり、その南側の海岸線から橋板湖山が盛りあがる。沖合には、龜山島が浮かぶ。好天気で比較的楽な行程であることも関係し、今日の参加者はなんと30人である。そのうちには日本人参加者も三名だ。

駅前で海と橋板湖山を背景に集合写真
大溪小学校
9時45分、無人駅の大溪駅を出発する。濱海公路を少し進み、信号を渡って海岸沿いの歩道を歩く。背後に尖った岩峰鶯石尖がそびえる大溪小学校を右にみて、舗装された海岸沿い歩道は終わり土の道になる。前方の海岸沖にはサーファーたちが大勢海上にいる。ここはサーファーの集まる場所のようだ。10分ほどの海岸歩きを終え、陸の方向へ戻る。お手洗いのある天后宮廟の境内で少し立ち止まる。今日は、この媽祖廟の行事があるのか、多くの花がささげられている。

龜山島を背景にサーフィング
天后宮
ゲートから保線路に入る
天后宮から濱海公路を渡り、対面の合興保線路に入る。入口には鉄製ゲートがあるがその脇から入ることができる。幅がひろい道は、緩い勾配で高度を上げていく。歩くこと約10分で、幅広の沢を越す。水量が少なく飛び石を渡れば問題ない。その先で、幅広道は大きく右に曲がるが、左にちょっと登り山道が始まる。こちらをとって進む。10時26分、森が開けて前面に送電鉄塔が高い。遠くには龜山島が海に浮かぶ。

山道に入る
送電鉄塔、遠くに龜山島
山腹の道を進む
保線路は、山腹にそって下りや上りがある。途中二カ所の送電鉄塔を見て、10時48分谷間の沢を越す。ここはちょっと水量があるが、飛び石を注意して渡れば靴をぬらさない。道は方向を変え、登り始める。道脇の大板根の樹木をみて間もなく、また送電鉄塔脇を行く。その先で道は細くなり、11時13分、谷あいの分岐に来る。左は、橋板湖山山頂へ直接つながる道だ。右は保線路で別の送電鉄塔へと続く。左の最近手入れされた道を登る。最後の急坂を登り、11時半山頂(標高303m)についた。狭い山頂は密林に囲まれ、展望はない。

沢を越す
坂道を登る
大板根
細くなった道を登る
谷間の分岐

橋板湖山山頂
山頂の筆者
長めの休憩の後12時5分、山頂をあとにする。ほぼ平らな尾根上の道を行き、休憩している別の団体を過ぎて分岐を見る。右は、先ほどの分岐からやってくる道だ。左にとり、尾根上の道を進む。道は上り下りがしばらく続くが、そのうち大きく下り始める。雑木林や竹林、多くの登山者が訪れるようになったので、道筋ははっきりしている。12時57分、北關觀日台にたどり着き、上がって休憩する。床が一部腐食して抜けているところもあるが、涼亭もありよい休憩所である。ここからも、もちろん龜山島が望める。

分岐を左にとる
竹林の坂を下る
觀日台で休憩
觀日台から眺める龜山島
この分岐は左に
13時10分、次の目標梗枋山へ向かう。展望台へと続く石段道からすぐ分かれて、左の稜線を行く山道を進む。そのすぐ先の分岐は左にとる。おおむね下りの道を行き、最後に少し登って13時25分、狭い梗枋山山頂(標高141m)に着いた。今日は人数が多いので、順繰りに写真を写し、今日最後のセクションを下る。13時51分、山道はひょっこりと舗装路にでて終了する。この道は、9年ほど近く前に叢雲山を訪れた時に通った道だ。

急坂を下る

梗枋山山頂


最後の下り

登山口


歩行橋
参加者のうちの21人が、一緒に海鮮料理店に行くという。舗装路を少し下り、直接帰るメンバーと別れて濱海公路へと進む。梗枋溪にかかる歩行橋を渡り対岸の小公園に入る。さらに進んで濱海公路を歩き、14時6分阿春海鮮店に着いた。食事時間を少し過ぎているが、事前に店に電話を入れていたので、問題なく対応してもらった。ビールや持参したお酒を飲み、海鮮料理に舌鼓を打つ。食事は一人当たり400元だった。15時15分、店を後にし、海岸沿いの歩道を歩く。15時半過ぎ、龜山駅に着き、待つこと20分ほどでやってきた区間電車で帰京した。

濱海公路わきの海鮮料理店
参加メンバーの料理写真

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帰りの区間電車@龜山駅
距離約8㎞、所要時間は休憩を含んで4時間20分である。それでも累計で450mほど登っている。最高点でも300mだが、稜線上でそこそこの登り下りがあったからだろう。コース定数は15である。春先気温がまだ高くなく、天気のよい海岸沿いの低山ハイキングは、とても気持ちの良いものだ。海に囲まれた台湾ならではの、コースでもある。