2019年7月13日 塔曼山 Mt. Tanman the highest peak of New Taipei City

@summit of Mt. Tanman 塔曼山山頂

塔曼山は、5年前に訪れている。その時は、40年ほど前にまだ舗装されていなかった北橫公路（台湾北部横断道路）が舗装されてとても良くなり、巴陵大橋もできてすっかり様変わりしていることに驚いた。今回は、今月下旬に日本で台湾のメンバーと一緒に北アルプスを登る予定があるので、その事前足慣らしの目的で、北橫公路わきの山を登りにいった。前回の登山ルートとは異なるが、同じ山なので、英語で記述します。

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A round trip to the summit

The left hump is Mt. Tanman and right is Galahe hot spring

Map of the two-day activity area

Mt. Tanman (塔曼山), at the elevation of 2130 meters, the highest peak of New Taipei City (新北市), is located on the boarder between New Taipei and Taoyuan (桃園市) municipalities. It belongs to the past territory of Atayal (泰雅) indigenous people. The mountain was named after a village Tanman of Atayal tribe, which existed on the southern slope of the mountain.

A view from Baling observation deck. The peak behind the tree on left is Mt. Tanman

It is very close to Baling (巴陵), known for its high-altitude crops like peaches. There are three routes to reach the summit of Mt. Tanman, one east from Mt. Meiguiximo (玫瑰西摩山) over the connecting ridge, one north from the ridge running from Mt. Lala (拉拉山) and one over its west sub ridge. Two trail heads of the three routes can be reached through Baling. We take the third route this time while we made it to the top through the second route five years ago, both of which you go through Baling to get to each trail head.

Trail head by the concrete water tank

We left Taipei early in the morning by a car of our member. We have five members today . This is a two-day trip to mountains besides No. 7 North Cross-island Highway (北橫公路), which connects Daxi (大溪) of Taoyuan and Yilan (宜蘭). Our first destination is Mt. Tanman. When we reach the trail head besides a big water tank around 10:30 , there are many cars parked along the narrow road leading to the tank. We luckily find an empty space near the tank. On our way up here, we have met many cars. There are many newly opened camping sites along the road and this is why so many cars.

Soon get into the forest. A warning sign by authority for illegal logging

A wide and nice trail goes up in the woods

Wooden steps

We start at 10:45. The sun is already high and bright. We soon walk into a dark and thick forest and our climb starts. The altitude here is around 1,670 metes and we need to cover the height of approximately 460 meters to the summit. This is a popular route and the trail is in good shape. It is wide and smooth. Necessary maintenance is obviously made by the authority.  A water pipe is running along the trail, which supplies water from somewhere up in a small stream to the tank by the trail head. The grade is moderate and we gain height. A plate showing the distance from the trail head is fixed on a tree trunk at every 100 meters.

Junction in rhododendron woods

Wood steps are made to a steep section of the trail.  In a half hour we come into woods of rhododendron. If we come here in April or May, there should be many white and pink flowers in full bloom. We leave rhododendron woods and come into a forest of wide-leaf trees. We go up to a steep slope where an aiding rope is affixed and at 11:30 reached a junction with another trail coming up from north. We have a short rest.

A log bridge

After ten minutes rest we resume our way up. The trail soon goes over a single long log, which actually is a fallen big tree trunk. Steel nails are driven into the woods and its surface shows wear and tear, which indicates many passage of hikers over it.  On a broad ridge giant trees of red cypress show up here and there.  A 1600 meter sign is fixed on to a dead tree trunk, which has two legs like a man. The forest again has rhododendron trees and the forest bed is soft due to thick fallen leaves from the trees. You can feel it under your feet when you step on it.

1600m sign nailed onto a dead tree trunk

Pass a muddy section

We take over a few groups of hikers on our way up. Some group is of ten or so of hikers.  The forest bed turns to be fern grass and some section of the trail are wet and muddy. Another long wood steps come up at the 2800 meter post. The summit is almost there. Bushes of Yushan cane are here and there, showing that we are at higher altitude. At 12:33 we see a big solar panels and a weather observation equipment on our left and soon arrive at the summit. It took us an hour and 45 minutes to cover three kilometers.

Go by red cypress trees

Weather observation equipment by the summit

We have a good rest of a half hour around the triangular marker stone. Cold beer is really nice. It  has become a kind of regular manner of our hiking group to bring a can of beer or two to share on summits. If you place canned beer in a freezer on a day before, the whole can is hard frozen by morning and you can have nice and cold beer just melt out by noon or so.  By the time we are ready to leave, three hikers come up. This mountain is really a popular destination of hikers.

Take the same trail down

A victim cypress tree with pieces cut out

We take the same route down to the trail head.  We notice a red paint on red cypress tree trunk or fallen log on our way. They are made by the forestry bureau to indicate that illegal cut-out by so-called mountain rat (山老鼠), the forest tree robber. These trees are now all protected. It is reported that the forest robbers employ foreign workers of over-stay and make them to steal expensive woods. I have no encounter of actual forest robbers, but witnessed the site of stolen woods many times in the past.

Walking over the fallen logs

We take a short rest at the junction and come down to the trail head at 14:40. We made a round trip to the summit in about four hours. The afternoon sun is still very bright and hot. We drive down to the highway 7 and cross Dahanxi river (大漢溪) to Galahe (嘎拉賀) village where we will take a outdoor hot spring bath and stay overnight.

Take a long way down to the hot spring

A hot spring is pouring besides the stream of Sanguanxi river (三光溪) and mixed with cold water to become a nice natural bath. It is located at the bottom of the valley. You need to go down by 400 meters or so and it will take you a good half hour to come up again.

Galahe wild hot spring

The trail we take this time to the summit of Mt. Tanman is an easy route and recommendable to anyone. Hiking on this kind of mountain is to enjoy beauty of wild forests, not open wide view from the summit. The whole trail is not so long and at high altitude. It is a good place to escape from the heat of summer.