2022年1月4日 樟之細路 明德水庫-獅潭 Laknus Selu trail: Mingde reservoir to Shitan - a sunny escape from gloomy and chilly Taipei

北隘勇古道の嬲崠茶亭 Niaodong tea hut on Beiaiyong old trail

昨年の冬から春にかけて、桃園龍潭の石門水庫近くから歩き始めた樟之細路の旅は、都合六回行い、苗栗の明德水庫までを歩き終えた。気候が暑くなるに従い、標高が低く尚且つ日陰の少ない車道も含めたルートを歩くのはつらくなり、そこで一時中断した。全行程200㎞を越えるルートのほぼ半分を消化した形だ。

また冬が訪れ、北部より天気が良い苗栗以南の樟之細路のセクションをまた歩き始めた。今回は参加者が全部で26名と多く、一台の中型バスで往復した。それまでは、人数もそれほどではなく一般の交通手段で対応していた。前回最後の歩きで到達した明德水庫は長く雨が降らず水位がかなり低く、それを利用して湖底の土砂を移動するような作業が行われ、土煙が立ち込めていた。今回は、満々と水を蓄えた湖面が我々を迎えた。

バスで直接明德水庫へ行けるので、一般交通手段より早く到着した。前回の樟之細路終了点である、明德水庫の南東岸にある魯冰花農莊から樟之細路の旅の再開である。山に向けて道を進み、福州農場を過ぎると水寨下古道が始まる。途中で白梅が満開の普光寺を通り、蘧廬書院へと登った。そこで道から遠くない帽盒東山を往復、さらに北隘勇古道を進んで蕃薯寮山を越え、いったん苗22県道を歩いて鳴鳳古道へとつないだ。最後の鳴鳳山の稜線を越えると、あとは下り一本、下って獅潭の義民廟へと出た。その後は獅潭老街を散策し、台北へと帰京した。台北は17度で尚且つ雨が降っており、昼間暑くて汗を流したことが夢の如くであった。

天気がとてもよく、また空気も透明度が高く、山上からは苗栗市やそのさら遠くの海岸線、また山側は10月歩いた神仙縱走の峰々の向こうに加里山や遠く樂山までも望めた。またその北側には鵝公髻山、また遠く南にはこれまた先月歩いたばかりの鴛嘴山まで確認できた。この地は、こうした奥深い山々の前衛になる山野であり、中国南部からやってきた主に客家族の移民たちが平地から山へと開墾をすすめていったところである。そして当時は原住民賽夏族(サイシャット族)との接点で血の流れる衝突もあった。それは、歩いた古道の名前北隘勇古道に現れている。隘勇とは、簡単に言えば当時の原住民と平地人の境界である。

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Hike from the north to the south

Raknus Selu trail is not a single continuous walkway, though it is called a trail. It is an amalgamation of many separate historical trails, hiking trails and linking public roads that represents the history of the area through which the trail passes. It is an officially recognized trail north from Longtan (龍潭) of Taoyuan (桃園) south to Dongshi (東勢) of Taizhong (台中) spanning 220 kilometers in length. It goes over hills and along dales of ten or more kilometers away from Taiwan's northwestern coast line. It is the region where immigrants from southern China, mostly Kejia (客家, Hakka) people, came to settle down a couple of centuries ago. Their immigration caused a lot of friction with the indigenous people who were already there. I described the historical background of this trail in my another article, so I would not repeat here. Please take a look if you are interested.

At the summit of Mt. Fanshuliao-shan

We made six visits to the Raknus Selu trail covering from the north end in January to Mingde reservoir (明德水庫) , a halfway point of the whole trail system, in late March of last year. Because the weather turned very warm by then and it would be very tiresome to walk the trail of low altitude and open car roads under the strong sun, we ceased our journey and waited until it turned cool again.  Now that it is January, the weather is good enough for us to resume our journey of the Raknus Selu trail.

Our bus

We had an unprecedented total of 26 members for the trips of Raknus Selu this time, which was plenty enough to hire a middle-sized bus. Unlike our previous trips for which we went by public transportation, we took a ride on a bus to the starting point Mingde reservoir and back from the end point Shitan (獅潭). It saved us time as well as money. The bus of 26 passengers with a driver costed us NT$10,000 for the round trip.

Our hike started from Yongchungong (永春宮) suspension bridge of Mingde reservoir. We first reached the ending point of the Raknus selu on our last trip and resumed our steps on the trail. A paved road led us to Fuzhou farm (福州農場) where the first dirt trail Shuizhaixia old trail (水寨下古道) took over. The trail went up to a Fenglu-shuyan (蘧廬書院), stopping over at Puguang-si temple (普光寺) en route. We made a quick round climb to nearby Mt. Maohedong-shan (帽盒東山) and had a lunch break. Another old trail, Beiaiyong trail (北隘勇古道) led us to Mt. Fanshuliao-shan (蕃薯寮山) and further connected to Miao 22 (苗22) county road. From Yundonggong (雲洞宮) temple we took Mingfeng old trail (鳴鳳古道) all the way down to Shitan Yimin-miao temple (獅潭義民廟) to complete our trip. We had some stroll along the streets of Shitan and went back to Taipei.

Mingde reservoir with full of water

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Just arrived at reservoir

We left Taipei at 7:00 by our hired bus. It was early enough not to get caught in traffic jam on the national highway No. 1. We made a brief stopover at Hukou (湖口) resting station and got off the highway at 8:35. The bus went further to the west end of the Mingde reservoir, driving along the north shore and now we are at the side of Yongchungong suspension bridge. The time is 8:50. It took us one hour and fifty minutes. The sky is clear unlike gloomy and chilly overcast of Taipei. The reservoir welcomes us with full of water. On our last visit here in March it was almost empty and a large part of its bottom showed surface soil.

A view from Yongchungong: we start from the point across the water and up to the hills behind

Nanan road where we step on Raknus Selu

Crossing the bridge we come to Yongchungong temple. It stands on a little mound by the water and commands a nice view towards the east. A man at the place asks us our itinerary. He seems to be very knowledgeable about trails around. We go down and along a walkway to meet Nanan road (南岸道路). This is where our trip on Raknus Selu trail begins. We soon make a left turn and go up along a poorly paved road. It gains height as we go into a valley. A fifteen-minute walk brings us to Fuzhou farm. Many fat chickens are pecking in an open yard and dogs are barking at us. A nearby board placed by the forestry burau of the government explains Shuizhaishan trail. It says the trail is 2.4 kilometer long and other related things.

Heading for Fuzhou farm by betel nut trees

Fuzhou farm

Going on Shuizhaixia trail

Crossing a log bridge

We pass by a shop of the farm and continue on a primitive dirt path. There are unused ponds for fish farming by the trail. The trail passes a small dry creek over a log bridge and starts ascending on a steep slope. Ropes are fixed at some points. At 9:55 we reach the top where a small concrete marker is placed. This is supposed to be the summit of Mt. Shuizhaixia-shan (水寨下山, elevation 245 meters) but there is no sign to show it. Markers of the trail attached to a nearby tree only show directions.

Just having reached Mt. Shuizhaixia-shan

Puguangsi temple

Members coming down

The trial turns to be concrete covered steps and goes down to Puguang-si temple. The temple is quite sizable with a three-story main hall and three towers, two low towers in front and one tall tower for bone ash storage by the main hall. The court yard is very large. A tall plum tree at a corner is full of white flowers. This is a one-third point of the Shuizhaixia trail. We have a rest. 

Plum tree in full bloom

Continue our trail from here at the corner of the court yard

Going up stone steps for a while

We resume our hike at 10:20 from the south end of the court where a wood pavilion stands. Stone steps goes up on a steep slope for a while and turns to be a dirt track traversing a hillside, The trail gets into a small valley where a little water stream flows down on a bare rock surface. Shuizhaixia means a waterfall in the Kejia language. This kind of terrain should be an origin of the name. This trail is said to have 150 years of history and a famous missionary George Mackay (馬偕傳教士, 1844-1901) might well have traced this trail to preach his mission in this region. 

Traversing a hillside

Passing a wet rocky section

The trail gets steep again. Primitive stone steps are placed at some steep sections, which are very characteristic of old trails of Taiwan. We pass by a junction to Mt. Maohedong-shan and continue on the trail to Fenglu-shuyuan house (elev. 377m). We step into bright open space in front of the house gate from a dark forest at 11:09.  While some members have a rest here, the rest of us head for Mt. Maohedong-shan. The path goes down a little and up again on a steep ridge covered with thin bamboos. We reach the summit in about 15 minutes. A tree-encircled summit has a concrete maker at its center and yields no view. On our way back a distant view of mountains like Mt. Jiali-shan (加里山) and Mt. Egongji-shan (鵝公髻山)  standing behind the peaks of Shenxian (神仙) ridge can been seen, which is a happy surprise to me. We get back to  Fenglu-shuyuan house at 11:52. We all have a lunch break.

Getting into bright open space in front of Fenglu-shuyuan house

Climbing the steep slope covered with thin bamboos

Summit of Maohedong-shan

A view of Mt. Egongji-shan at the far end

People enjoying lunch break

Advancing on a narrow ridge

We set off at 12:30 for the rest of our hike. We go along a paved road for a while and take a right turn to get onto Beiaiyong old trail. It soon turns to be a steep climb and gets onto a narrow ridge. The trail gets into an open tall grass field and cross a paved road. The track keeps on the ridge. Some points on the trail reveals a view of the west side. Many tall wind electric generators stand side by side by the sea coast near Zhunan (竹南). Also observable are elevated highways and towns of Miaoli (苗栗) and its neighbors. I did not expect to have such a nice vista and am very happy.

Passing through an open grass field

A wide vista towards the west

Staircase to the summit

A rather gentle grade of the ridge gets steep again with a long staircase.  At 13:12 we reach the summit of Mt. Fanshuliao-shan (elev. 492). A small summit is covered with bricks and its triangulation marker is on the elevated center platform. From the summit, the trail goes down with a staircase and turns to be a wide and stone-paved walkway. It looks like an expensive work. We reach a nice resting area with a white hut called Niaodong tea hut (嬲崠茶亭). From a corner of the area the unique triangle peak of Mt. Yuanzui-shan (鳶嘴山) is identifiable in a far distance.

Summit of Mt. Fanshuliao-shan

Interior of Niaodong tea hut

Very good but expensive stone paved trail

Beiaioyong old trail once was an aiyongxian (隘勇線) in an early days of the Kejia (Hakka) settlements in 19th century. Aiyongxian is a kind of boarder line between the indigenous people and the flat land people. This particular one was between the Saisiyat tribe (賽夏族) and the Kejia (Hakka) people. Back in those days, the indigenous people killed and beheaded settlers to protect their original territory. The Kejia (Hakka) people organized their defense force, which created such boarder lines on surrounding mountain ridges and guards stationed on some points on the line. The Beiaiyong trail is a legacy of the old days. 

A view of Mingde reservoir and beyond

Going along Miao 22 road

The stone paved trail lasts for another few hundred meters and connects to a paved road, which soon merges a wide Miao 22 county road. The open paved road is a good vantage point. In front of you spread hills and dales of Miaoli county. Mingde reservoir is now far in the bottom of dale reflecting its water. Far beyond lies a row of wind generators along the coast line. We follow Miao 22 road to reach Yundonggong temple at 14:10 where our final stretch, Mingfeng old trail begins.

Yundong temple trail head

The highest point of the trail

After a short rest we take our last climb and get to the highest point  (elev. 508m) of the old trail at 14:36. The descending trail soon diverges to its right another trail called Nanaiyong old trail (南隘勇古道), which was also once an aiyongxian like Beiaiyong old trail we have just come along. Mingfeng old trail is covered with stone all the way. The steep step section ends at Qingrengu (情人谷, meaning lovers' valley). Crossing a few bridges and following down a moderately descending section, we come out to the trail head at 15:26. The paved road leads to a suspension bridge and Yimin-miao temple, which we reach at 15:33 and complete our hike.

Nanaiyong old trail diverges to the right

Going down a long step trail

Qingrengu (lovers' valley)

Trail end at last

It is still early so all of us go to the old street of Shitan town for stroll. Some people buy local stuff and enjoy local drinks and food. We gather at 16:00 and take our bus back to Taipei, which we reach around 18:40. It is raining and chilly in Taipei. A signboard on the top of a building indicates 17 degree. Just a few hours ago we even sweated on our ascent and walking along an open motorway under the direct sun. What a difference the weather system can make out on the same Taiwan island!!

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Plum flowers of Puguangsi temple

We walked a little less than 12 kilometers spending 6 hours and a half including rather long breaks. The route physical index is 22. We proceeded at a slow pace, which combined with the nice weather gave all of us a good time. We have since come to more than a half of the entire Raknus Selu and will keep our journey all the way to Dongshi, the end of the trail. It will need a couple of more trips. I hope that will be before another warm season comes.

If you approach this section of the trail by public transportation, you would better walk rather quickly. Bus services of this region is not frequent. If you miss one, you have to wait for a long time to catch the next service or you won't be able to go back if you miss the last service that ends rather early compared with big cities.