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2025-11-20

2025年11月16日 紗帽山秘徑:Adventurous routes on the little Mt. Shamao-shan

A new shinny marker of 605(606) Peak summit

今年9月に紗帽山をあまり歩かれていない非官製路経由で登った。登頂したときに天気が急変したので、下山は官製石段道で下山した。そのため、今回はまた前回予定して歩かなかった、当山の南側と東側のルートを歩いて、9月の時の目的を果たした。この小さい山には、それでもまだ走破していない部分も残る。いずれ機会があったら、それを補う形でいっても面白いかもしれない。このような歩き方は、当座を初めて登るには、ちょっと適さないが。行きは天母古道、下山は翠峰瀑布を経由して歩いた。

Hiked counter-clock wise
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Mt. Shamao-shan (紗帽山) stands in front of Mt. Qixing-shan (七星山) as if a little servant to its master. Its distinctive shape resembles a hat of ancient Chinese officials, so has gotten its name. This mountain has a good official trail from two sides and attracts countless hikers throughout a year. This little mountain (well, at 645metes in elevation, height wise not so little compared with other mountains, though) has a special attraction for experienced hikers up its sleeve.

Shamao-shan, summit on its left peak, 605 Peak on the right

If you look at a map of the mountain, you find three ring paths going around at a low, middle and high level of its slope of three hundred meter in height. Besides the three circular paths several up-and-down paths are connecting the ring ones, as if making a web of paths. Why and how such trails? It is a work of volunteer hikers. I do not know who they are but surely they have been working on this project(?). Thanks to their work, this uneventful mountain has gained a special feature.

members at the summit viewing deck

After I came to know this trail web, my friends and I went to Shamao-shan to hike along paths on the west and north sides and up to the summit in this September. As soon as we got there, shower started falling as a typhoon was approaching, so we abandoned my original plan to go down by paths of the other sides. We went down by the official stone-step trail, instead. This is our second hike of this sort and hiked the east and south sides to supplement the original plan of September.

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Tianmu trail head
A large water pipe parallel to the trail
Ten of us met at Tianmu (天母) and started climbing along Tianmu historical trail (天母古道) at a little before 8:30. This trail is very well-known and the author walked up and down many times in the past. Tianmu itself is a nice residential area on a gentle slope. The trail goes up about 200 meters from the trail head and continues on a flat section for another couple of kilometers. We were up at the end of a steep step way at 8:52 and followed the flat section for another twenty minutes to reach a rest spot with a few benches. On our way along the flat section saw a group of monkeys playing around. A female monkey was holding a very small baby in her arms that looked just born recently. They were not afraid of human at all.

a tiny baby monkey in mother's arm

Down to the valley
After a short break we continued our way to the top of the trail's final ascending section and went down to a valley bottom to cross a brook. Because the water contains iron the brook bed and stones are all of reddish color. Climbing back to Shamao road (紗帽路) found the trail head of our first path in a small gap of the retaining wall across the road. If you do not know it, you would surely not notice.

An obscure trail head😂
The trail is like this
At 9:37 we squeeze into the gap to start our ascent. The trail is pretty primitive and its track is rather obscure but traceable. As we climb we pass rope sections and hit a fork with a bottom ring trail at 9:55.  In order to explore the web of trails, we take this bottom ring path for some time. It soon diverges a path going up and keeps along the slope with many ups and downs. The track surface is pretty soft, meaning seldom travelled. In thirty minutes the path has brought us to another fork with an ascending path. We take this and up for a  while to find a good point to have a rest for a few minutes.

Pangolin's nest looks abandoned
Many ups and downs on traversing path
Thankfully ropes are fixed for steep climb
Approaching the middle level trail
An open filed among woods
Ten minutes ascent from the rest spot has brought us to a fork with a middle level ring trail. We take left there to meet another path that goes up to a upper ring path. The ascending path crosses the upper path and has led us to the summit of 605 Peak, which we have reached at 11:21. At a corner of circle of cleared weeds finds a shiny marker that shows "Buttock" peak (臀翹峰) and 606m (see the top of this article). This stainless steel marker looks recently planted. The map shows the elevation is 605m, which in fact does not matter much. The name should have been derived from the shape of the mountain skyline. We had a lunch break there.

Fallen trees are not few
Top of 605 Peak just ahead
Lunch break
Up the stone steps to the summit
At 11:55 we head for the main peak of the mountain. The descending path met the stone step official trail. My original plan was to continue the unofficial path across the stone trail, but we were not able to find it where the map shows so we followed the stone trail to reach the summit, which we reached at 12:08. This is our destination of the day. There are a dozen of hikers around the summit and its adjacent viewing platform. This is quite a contrast with the route we have come up. Mt. Qixing-shan was covered with white cloud when we were on the platform.

A panorama from the viewing deck
Going down by primitive trail
Crawling under fallen trees and branches
Steep but good track
We went down by more unofficial trails, first down to the upper ring path and follow it to meet a descending one. The descending trail parallel to the official trail is pretty steep but ropes are fixed for almost all steep stretches. This track looks pretty solid without weeds compared with the ones along which we have come so far. This must have been opened for some long time and traveled often.  At the point where this path turns to right we take another path to get to the official stone trail.  We pop out onto the stone trail in a few minutes and follow it all the way down to its trail head. We were down at the trail head by Shamao Road at 13:05 and had a short rest there.




Pop out onto the stone step way
Down to the trail head


We were climbing this side of the mountain a while ago
Back at Tianmu grail
We went back along Shamao Road for the Tianmu trail and back onto it until reaching the junction where a trail goes down to Cuifeng water fall (翠峰瀑布).  As we went down the water fall’s noise was getting louder. We reached the valley bottom at 13:47 where the water fall shows its plentiful water flowing down. It is very impressive. The stream bed is of reddish color here too. We had our final break by the water fall. A member shared her beer with others. It was a nice and leisurely ending of our hike today.

Down to the waterfall
Almost there

Plastic pipe replaced the original canal
The final leg of our hike was walking along Houdongzhun canal trail (猴洞圳古道) and then onto Zhongshan North Road section 7 lane 219 (中山北路1段219巷) back to Tianmu. Shortly after our arrival at Tiamnu bus stop 14:47, our bus (Red 19 紅19) bound for MRT Shipai station (捷運石牌站) has come. We have spent 6 hours and 40 minutes inclusive of rests, approximately 9.5 kilometers. The total ascent 670 meters with the route physical index 22.

Walking by the river

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Although we visited Shamao-shan twice to walk those flimsy trails, there are still more left untraced. We may do it again to cover more paths but for the time being this kind of activity would not be repeated.  If you are an experienced hiker able to read a map and want to try something unconventional, you can try those crisscrossing trails around Shamaoshan. It is a kind of little adventure that can be done in a familiar environment.


2025-10-31

2025年10月29日 日本茨城縣筑波山 俯瞰關東平野的百名山

從開往筑波山巴士車窗看雙山頂的筑波山(左:男體山 右:女體山)

今回の日本帰国期間中は、長野県戸隠周りの山旅を前週行った。滞在は少し長くゆっくりと過ごしたが、ちょうど新御徒町駅近くのウィークリーマンションであったので、天気の良い日に筑波山に行くことにした。新御徒町からは、筑波まで乗り換えなしの直通つくばエクスプレスがあるので、この機に訪ねることにしたわけだ。

百名山になっている筑波山は、関東平野のへりにある。当日の天気は良かったが、空気がそれほど澄んでいなかったので、遠くの富士山などは霞のなかであった。しかし、平地から聳える双頭の山は、その昔から聖山としてあがめられてきたのを感じさせた。特に低山としては多くの露岩があり、古人が神の宿る山として見た理由の一つだろう。登山口へ向かう一番バスに間に合う形で出発し、思いのほか早く歩き終えた。筑波山は、ロープウェイもケーブルカーもあり、遊楽客でも気軽に訪れることができる山であるが、もちろん上下とも徒歩である。行きは白雲橋コースで女体山に登り、稜線を歩いて男体山に立ち寄り、そして御幸ケ原コースで下山である。

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筑波山位於關東平野之東端(紅圈)

日本最廣大的關東平野東端有一座自古以來被稱為聖山的山峰,就是筑波山。古人將整個山體當成神明來祭拜。當前有山麓的神社(拜殿),其雙峰的西峰(男體山)和東峰(女體山)之山頂均有神社。在登山步道上也有好多小祠等,整山都是信仰的對象。據說有三千年歷史,是日本屬一屬二的最古老山岳信仰的地方。

筑波山神社拜殿
女體山山頂之神社
男體山山頂之神社
古時有句說「西有富士山,東有筑波山」。雖然其高度只有富士山的四分之一(雙山頂之一女體山877m,男體山871m;富士山則3776m),此句顯示在當時大眾心目中多麼的重要。在江戶時代,德川幕府政府將筑波山成為江戶(即現代的東京)的守護神明。在如此的情形下,江戶時代的大眾對筑波山的信仰活動更流行,朝聖參拜更活躍。在日本文化裡也扮演重要的角色。例如早在1200年前的文藝裡出現。將四世紀~八世紀的長詩等編輯而八世紀後半完成的萬葉集中也有提到筑波山的幾首詩歌。
當地登山路線圖
女體山山頂眺望男體山
筆者在前周去長野縣與台灣山友去做山旅之後,繼續留在東京兩週。我旅居於新御徒町站附近。新御徒町站有直達筑波的つくばエクスプレス鐵路(筑波快線),往返筑波很方便。於是等到好天氣的一天去爬筑波山。早上搭つくばエクスプレス列車去筑波站,轉乘筑波山接駁巴士去登山口爬山。筑波山有登山電車也有纜車,但當然徒步上山也徒步下山。因為上山交通方便,山上遊客也不少。尤其在女體山山頂要排隊拍攝。或許筆者單獨去的緣故,比想像的快走完下山回東京了。

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在新御徒町站搭上つくばエクスプレス電車

平日從筑波站開往筑波山登山口的接駁巴士最早一班是8:00開。我為趕上此班車,六點半離開住所走去新御徒町站,搭上6:40開的快車。7:36抵達筑波站,上去地上公車轉運站。走到公車站牌時,已有十來個登山客在排隊。平日這個時刻還有怎麼多登山客,筑波山的人氣真是名不虛傳。準時開出的巴士很快走出鬧區,一路開往筑波山。巴士開了二十多分,筑波山現身於平野上。獨立峰般的山容的確令人感覺其雄偉。


筑波轉運站等車排隊
參道入口的鳥居
爬起山坡的巴士,8:40到了筑波山神社入口站。大部分的乘客在此下車,剩餘的乘客前往終點つつじケ(杜鵑)丘站。那裡有纜車站。筑波山神社入口站旁邊有遊客中心和小商店。整裝後往神社起步走過大鳥居下。神社前的一段路是參道,路雙邊有商店和旅館。經過很壯觀的中善寺大門前,仰望看到筑波山的雙頂峰豎立於寺廟大殿的後方高處。9:00轉彎走過第二鳥居進入神社境內。
中善寺大門,後方豎立男體山(左)和女體山
神社境內入口的鳥居
女體山石碑
從筑波山神社有兩條登山步道可到山頂。一條是筆者即將走的白雲橋路徑,另一條是經過神社大殿的御幸ケ原路徑。後者將在下山時要走的路線。白雲橋路線是從到神社大山門前分歧,往女體山東稜陡上。先走一點柏油路看到女體山的石牌,再轉左經過石造鳥居進入白雲橋登山步道。很多人爬山的這條山路,果然路況不錯。爬去看似檜木林中幾分鐘,有一條通往つつじヶ丘的山徑往右分歧過去。由此坡度增加不少。


白雲橋登山步道入口的鳥居
先走檜木林中
白蛇辯天
走上去白雲橋登山步道,小神祠和有しめ縄(注連繩)的石牌等與祈禱神明相關的地點出現於路旁。林相慢慢轉為闊葉樹林。10:00走到有幾個適合坐下來的石塊平台,便坐下石頭上休息一下。再走上去十幾分鐘,從上方聽到好多小朋友聲音,走上去知道小學遠足隊伍在弁慶茶屋跡涼亭休息。這裡是與來自つつじヶ丘的山徑叉路口,他們就是從那個登山口爬上來的。


坡度增加了
路旁路標
坐在大石上休息
小學遠足活動@辯慶茶屋跡 老師們鼓勵小學生爬坡

弁慶七戻り岩洞入口 右方有說明板

繼續前進又追上另一組小學生遠足隊伍。他們二,三十個學生和帶領的老師正在經過弁慶七戻り岩洞。弁慶是日本人都很熟悉的人物,就是12世紀末的京都僧兵,全名為武蔵坊辯慶。他是被其兄追殺的源義経之忠臣,陪伴主人逃亡於日本全國。日本的各地傳說中出現他名字。筆者剛過的弁慶茶屋跡和弁慶七戻り都是取於他的故事。弁慶七戻り是指大岩看起來遙遙欲墜,所以很屈強勇敢的辯慶也三思後才通過的地點。其實目前是大石塊蓋上雙石壁形成隧道般的地形。


遠足隊伍走在岩洞裡
小學生靠邊讓路
小學生們很有禮貌地讓路,爬上去就經過母の胎内くぐり岩石。傳說是與嬰兒出生一樣經過這點代表再生。再上去路旁看到一個接一個的有名稱的大小奇岩,包括陰陽石、国割石、出船入船、裏面大黒、北斗岩等。10:50爬到女體山山頂下方的叉路口,進入左方小徑一下有安座常神社和屏風岩。回去叉路口,爬上最後的陡坡,11:00到了女體山山頂。狹窄的岩石山頂上有神社,很多人在排隊拍照。


陰陽石
国割石
出船入船
裏面大黒
安座常神社
女體山山頂下的岩壁
人擠人的女體山山頂
從山頂俯瞰南方
東方風景
小朋友也徒步爬上來

下去就是纜車站
山頂上的風景確實很廣。東方是大平地,東南方可認出霞ヶ浦湖水,但今天遠方在霞霾中看不到遠處。聽說空氣很清淨時,看得到富士山。11:25離開女體山山頂前往男體山。下去一下經過有一條從纜車站上來路之叉路口。下纜車走一下就可爬到女體山山頂,難怪人這麼多。繼續下去,路旁看到被稱為ガマ石(蛤蟆岩)。從下面看上去就像青蛙開大口似的。還有一個せきれい石、傳說有隻鶺鴒在此告訴神話中的夫妻神如何相處,由此故事大石塊被認為有男女結緣的力量。11:43走到鞍部御幸ケ原廣場。很多人在此用午餐,我也停下來用餐休息。
ガマ石
せきれい石
御幸ケ原、後方是男體山
昭和天皇之紀念留文@御幸ケ原
12:15往男體山爬起山徑。越上去越陡峭,最後爬了一小段大小岩石路段,12:27到了有神社的男體山山頂。其南面沒有樹枝圍繞可有很廣景色,不過遠處還是模糊不清。12:42由原路下去御幸ケ原,再由御幸ケ原路徑開始下山。這條步道也路況相當好,陡坡段有很多階梯。13:20走到みなの(MINANO)涼亭。這裡是登山電車鐵路旁,剛好雙向電車都來,所以看兩部車交換的情形。看了幾分鐘電車,又下去山路。13:48經過電車山麓車站(宮脇駅),再下去一下就出來神社拜殿旁。目前是所謂七五三習俗的季節。穿著漂亮和服的小女童(三歲男女童、五歲男童、七歲女童祭拜平安長大)來拜神。



爬去石塊路段

男體山山頂

山頂上的筆者
山頂山俯瞰西方向
由御幸ケ原路徑下山
下階梯
御幸ケ原コース路標
登山步道旁的巨大檜木



來祈禱七五三的女童和家人
筑波神社拜殿
下去階梯
下去神社的階梯,走到早上經過的鳥居,繼續下去14:04走到神社入口站,趕上14:07的班次。客滿的巴士14:46抵達筑波站,趕緊下地下的筑波快車站趕上14:50開的快車了。15:42抵達御徒町站結束單日筑波山行程。回程交通很順利,一小時半就回來了。走了大約7公里,含休息5小時20分鐘,總爬升730m,路線體能指數19。



趕上了下山的接駁巴士

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東京市區中心位於關東平野的南端,所以去爬山要花多時間才到登山口。很有名的高尾山也要一個多小時。與這種地理比起,台北真是爬山人的天堂。周圍都是山,很快可到很多不同登山口,車費也很少。也許我太習慣於台北的登山環境,會有這種感想。

登山步道旁的鳥類生態說明板

筑波山很值得去一趟。雖然高度不高,但被選為百名山,是有相當的理由根據。如果你去東京有一天的空隙,推薦去走一趟。對爬過台灣山岳的山友來說,爬筑波山都不難。四季都可以。我去的時候有點早於紅葉,大概再等兩周應該最好的時機吧。