2015年4月18日 平溪石硿子古道 - 雙溪中坑古道 Hiking through abandoned rice terraces in a remote valley

At one of rice terraces of Zhongkeng historical trail

前回雙溪の中坑古道を歩いた時、もともとは更に石硿子古道をへて平溪望古へ歩く予定であった。ところが、内盤山から歩き始めた直後、大雨が降り出しそこで山行を終わりにした。今回は、その果たせなかった石硿子古道から内盤山へ来たあと、内盤山古道を登り中坑古道を下り、更に雙溪柑腳へ歩くという山行である。今回は、すでに日本語で記述しているのと重なる部分があるので、英語で記述する。

========================================

Start from Wanbaodong (on upper left)

Hiking elevation profile

Alight #795 bus at Wanbaodong bus stop

Shuangxi district (雙溪區) of New Taipei city is a scarcely populated hilly terrain. More than two hundred years ago immigrants from mainland China settled in valleys here and established their homes. They cleared small pieces of flat land along valleys and built rice terraces with hard labor. To connect to neighboring villages, people had to walk across mountains and a network of footpaths were formed. As the economy of Taiwan advanced more car roads were built in remote areas like here. Cars took over the roles of local transportation. Residents moved out from their original home in valleys to cities for modern convenience. The footpaths which served the local people for many years were abandoned and forgotten. The nature claimed back its original state and thick vegetation covered settlements as well as footpaths.

Walk on the car road to the trail head

Taiwan became rich enough for its people to have time for hiking. Hikers explored this area and discovered once abandoned trails. Volunteering hikers cleared vegetation on trails and made them available for others to walk on. So called historical or ancient trails are those footpaths with such history. There are many historical trails all over Taiwan. Among the historical trails that I have ever walked, Shuangxi district keeps most beautiful trails. This is one of my favorite hiking destinations.

Waterfall beneath the car road

Shikongzi historical trail

Ｗe have 9 members today. 50 minutes of #795 bus ride took us to Wanbaodong (萬寶洞) bus stop in Pingxi (平溪) where we start today's hike. After a few minutes of preparation we start walking at 8:37. A small road diverges to right and this is the one we take. A narrow paved road turns into a even narrower foot path. We reach a small bridge in a few minutes where it connects to another paved road leading to the Shikongzi (石硿子古道) historical trail head. Because this road goes through a valley of small population, there is very little traffic. The road climbs along a beautiful stream down the valley. Small waterfalls are visible at some spots. We cover about 2 and a half kilometer and reach the road end at 9:08. A guide panel shows hiking trails in the region. The dirt historical trail starts just besides the panel.

Shikongzi waterfall

The dirt trail is clear and seems to be very often walked on. It goes under a massive concrete bridge which was once used for carrying coal across the valley. There was a coal mine on the other side of the valley until a few decades ago. In a few minutes we come to a junction. The right one goes up to Mt. Mumushan (畝畝山). We take the straight one along the stream. The trail goes along the stream on your left. It passes by a small waterfall and goes small ups and downs along the stream until we come to a junction at 9:30. This is where a short walk to Shikongzi waterfall (石硿子瀑布) diverges. We take left and head for the waterfall. The waterfall is only two or three meters high and water flows down over a solid rock. The pool in front of the waterfall is not deep either. It is not so impressive but it is worth a detour anyway. We have a first rest here.

Zhikongzi trail after crossing a concrete bridge

We resume our hike and go back to the junction. We follow the main trail. It still goes on the left side of the stream (looking from the upstream) for another twenty minutes or so and crosses the stream over with a concrete bridge. As we go along the stream for a few more minutes from the bridge, the trail looks narrower and less walked on. We still keep on that small footpath and it starts going up. I find that this is not the main trail and my map does not shows this one. We have missed the main trail somewhere but I know this can go up to the car road up the hill so we keep on. The trail becomes much unclear as we go. We climb for about 15 minutes and jump on to a car road.  We then take right and go down on the road. We meet the main trail from the right at 10:24. If we had followed it, we would have come this point and met the car road. We keep on the card road and soon find a small dirt footpath going up on our left. A route guide board is just beside the trail head.

The summit of Shikongzi trail

Shikongzi trail end

This dirt trail is another part of the Shikongzi historical trail. We climb the steep dirt grade for two or three minutes and come to the highest point. This is a four way cross road. A small footpath crosses here with the historical trail. If we take right here, we can go to Mt. Mumushan. We go straight and start descending. The slope is steep on this side too. In fifteen minutes we see a house and a car road and soon end our walk on the historical trail. We have another short break here. A local old woman comes over and talks to us. We have several Caucasian members and it must be a little unusual for her to see such a troop like us in this place.

at the highest point

We take right and goes up along the car road. We soon arrive at Neipanshan (內盤山), the end of the car road and the last bus stop F812 community bus. We goes left and pass by a firm house. We go down to a valley. This is another historical trail called Neipanshan trail (內盤山古道). I walked on this trail only two weeks ago, albeit the opposite direction. We first go along the main stream, cross it for the right side. In a few more minutes the trail goes up along with a sub stream flowing into the main stream. It passes by abandoned rice fields now covered with thick vegetation. We crosses the stream from left to right and back again. At 11:35 we come to a final stream crossing of this historical trail and have a short break.

At a rice terrace after lunch

Abandoned houses

Stream crossing

The trail goes along the stream for another few minutes and ascends with steep grade. We pass by a Tudigong (土地公) Taoist stone shine. There is no god image inside and now apparently nobody prays for it anymore. When local people used to walk on this trail in the past, they must have prayed for their safe passage and protection. We further go up and come to a junction. If we go left, we start walking the west branch of Zhongkeng (中坑古道) historical trail, which joins the east branch of the trail that we will walk on later. We take right and walk further on the Neipanshan trail. It keeps climbing and we reach the highest point of the trail at 11:56. This is also the highest point on today's hike. The trail starts descending and in a few more minutes we come to a junction to meet the east branch of Zhongkeng trail. We take right and soon come to a terrace rice filed. We go up the bank and a green field spreads in front of us. Another group of hikers is just about to leave after their lunch break. The leader of the group, Mt. Jiang is well-know person as he is a leader of Lantian troop (藍天隊), which voluntarily maintains hiking trails every week. Most of active hikers, including myself, know this group and appreciate their contribution.

Last stream crossing

As they leave for their next destination, we have a lunch break in turn. The rice terrace is now transformed into a green grass field, like golf courses. We sit down on the grass and have rest. Two of the members bring out wine and share with other members. It is really a nice picnic on such a grass field. After having a good rest of more than a half hour we resume our hike. This is a highlight of today's hike and we pass by most beautiful section of the Zhongkeng historical trail (east branch).

Tudigong shrine

A ten minutes of descent bring us to an abandoned village. Stone walls of several houses still stand and show the size of the village. In front of the houses there are rice fields. I guess there should have been forty or fifty people living in this remote village in the past. We further go down and come across another big rice terraces. It has several steps. I wonder how much sweat and blood they had shed to built this massive size of rice terraces just only with their hands and animals. Huge rocks still remain in the fields because they were too big to move without modern machinery. We keep descending and cross a stream several times. Some members slips while crossing and get their boots wet. I slip and get mine wet too on one of crossings. We go by several more big rice terraces. At 13:43, one hour from the place of lunch, we cross the stream for the last time. By then everybody except those who wear rain boots gets their boots wet.

Trail end, looking from a last bridge

The trail becomes wide and we see another Tudigong stone shrine. There are fruits and cookies in its front. Obviously people still come here and pray for gods. At 14:00 we walk cross a new concrete bridge. It seems that the local government has upgraded this section of road for tourism. We cross another big bridge and pass by a parking space. Several cars are parked there. They must belong to the members of Langtian troops whom we have met. We go up a little and meet a car road at 14:05. We go further down on the car road to our final destination Ganjiao (柑腳) where we catch a bus. When we have walked for ten minutes or so, a F812 free community bus is coming behind us. I thought that we did not make this bus, but luckily enough we have walked faster than my expectation. We just hop on the bus and head for Shuangxi train station.

We spent 5 hours and a half and covered 13 km. Because we were lucky to catch the F812 bus on the way to Ganjiao, it shortened our total time and distance. The rice terraces are really beautiful. The creeks along the valley are clean. The public transportation is not that convenient for this area but it is worth your extra time. You might well get your boots wet when crossing a stream, but the trail is clear to follow and easy to walk on. This route is highly recommended for any hikers.

2015年4月15日 陽明山系萬里大尖山 - 富士古道

擎風步道の草原から見る大尖山

富士古道の石碑

陽明山山系の磺嘴山周辺や萬里の山谷は直線距離としては台北から遠くない。しかし、自然保護区であるため入山許可が必要なことや交通の便が良くなく、草原があったり比較的登山者が少ないなど、魅力のある場所ではあるが、実はいままで一度も足を踏み入れていなかった。今回は、保護区以外の部分になる大尖山や富士古道を歩いた。アクセスが簡単な擎天崗からスタートして、萬里に抜けるコースである。萬里から台北へのアクセスが953番バスの運行開始でだいぶ改善されたことが今回山行実行の後押しになっている。

西の擎天崗から東へ崁腳國小まで歩く

下りがメインのルート

この山域は、擎天崗から風櫃嘴へ続くなだらかな尾根の東側に広がる。風櫃嘴は台北市外雙溪と新北市萬里を結ぶ北28号郷道の峠である。擎天崗と風櫃嘴との間には、陽明山公園が管理する石畳登山道が走り登山者も多い。この擎風登山道から磺嘴山への道が分岐する。それ以外には公式登山道はない。しかし、杏林山山頂から瑞泉に向かって東に枝尾根を下る道がある。入口には道標などはない、公園管理以外の道だ。擎天崗から擎風登山道を杏林山へ歩いた後、この道を谷に下り、今度は林市古道を登り返して大尖山の鞍部へ着く。大尖山山頂を往復した後、富士古道に入り草原を越え、さらに尾根を溪底分校（すでに廃校）に下る。そこから北28郷道を歩いて崁腳へでた。帰りの交通は、先に萬里へいきそこから今年年初に運転開始した953番バスで台北市へ直行した。

陽明山山系の東側に位置する

朝7時半にMRT劍潭駅に集まり7時40分発小18番バスで出発する。マイクロバスは満員でスタート、中途通過する冷水坑の温泉に向かう老人が多い。途中で他二名のメンバーが乗車し、今日は5名のパーティである。8時半前に終點擎天崗に到着、乗客は我々五人だけである。快晴の擎天崗は、平日の朝とあってほとんど人がいない。8時40分支度をすませて歩き始める。今日は、杏林山までは石畳の登山道である。金包里古道の入口を過ぎる。擎天崗の草原には牛も見かけない。牛の柵が新しいものに変わっている。左に大尖後山が大きい。青空のもと、軽快な歩きで実に快適だ。

金包里古道の入口、背後は石梯嶺，左に大尖後山が見える

森の中に入り、9時2分磺嘴山への分岐を過ぎる。無許可立入り禁止のための金網交換工事が進行中だ。石梯嶺への登りが始まる。登りが終わると同時に灌木がなくなり、展望が広がる。擎風登山道中、展望がよいセクションである。やって来た方向には七星山が座り、その右には小觀音山から竹子山の連峰が連なる。進行方向左には大尖山の大きな丸い山容がある。今日の行程で訪れる山だ。右側は、台北の町並みが望める。その遠くに白い山峰がある。霞んでいるが雪山である。9時14分、ベンチのある場所で休憩する。穏やかな春の山は、とても気分をよくさせてくれる。

石梯嶺から見る七星山とその右に小觀音山から竹子山の連峰、七星山の手前は擎天崗

金毛杜鵑の花が満開

なだらかな稜線を進んでいく。灌木が低いので周囲の景色の移り変わりを眺めながら進む。9時26分案内板のある石梯嶺頂上を通り過ぎる。下り始めると、正面に北五指山が座っている。最近はしばらく訪れていないが、荷蘭古道など多くの古道を擁する山と谷である。金毛杜鵑の赤い花が道端に満開だ。急坂を下ると草原が広がる。正面には杏林山が、そして左には大尖山がだいぶ近くなっている。草原をくだり、十数名のパーティとすれ違う。今日は平日で人が少ない、この人気ルート上で初めてである。草原が終わり、左に警告板を見る。淡基古道の一部と言われている道がここで交差するが、道標など無くわかっている者のみの道である。

杏林山の草原を登る

杏林山山頂脇の山道入口

次の小さな草原で、左に道が分かれていく。この辺りは牛が歩く獣道も多いので間違いやすいが、杏林山頂上へと続く道である。擎風登山道は杏林山山腹を巻いていき、頂上は通過しない。ここからは、石畳の道とは分かれ土の道となる。森の中に入り、また草原を過ぎてゆるやかに登っていく。9時56分、小さな草原の杏林山頂上（標高760m）に着く。二度目の訪問になる基石がある気持ちのよい頂上だ。前回は道のあることはわかっていたが歩かなかった瑞泉に下る道を進む。瑞泉古道とも言われるこの道は、結構歩かれているようで道筋もはっきりしている。少し下った後、草原を突っ切る。前方には大尖山がどっしりと構え、その左肩鞍部の遠くには磺嘴山が見えている。

瑞泉への下り途中の草原から見る大尖山と磺嘴山（左）

瑞泉へ急坂を下る

道は狭い枝尾根上を進むようになる。坂も急になってくる。しばらく下ったあと左に折れ、石積が現れるとすぐ、産業道路におりて山道が終わりになる。10時28分、杏林山から約30分ほどの下りである。舗装された産業道路は左に取り、谷にむけて下っていく。右には大尖山が高い。下って行き、左に池を見る。道脇の大石には谷神と赤い字が書いてある。右には沢音が大きい。登りが始まり、10時39分沢を橋で越える。道脇には石の机椅子が設けてあり、ここで一休みする。擎天崗を出発して2時間だ。

沢を越える、ここで休憩

土地公のある林市古道入口

数分の休憩後、登り始める。道幅は広いが、ここからは土の道である。数分歩いて広い道は終りとなる。正面には土地公が鎮座している。他で見るような石の祠でなく、木製の屋根が掛けてある。神像の脇には神具もあり、お参りされている事がわかる。林市古道は、直進する道である。右に大きな石垣がある。もともと何かの土台だと思ったが、道を進むとこの石垣の内側は池のようになっているのがわかる。沢沿いに道は進んでいく。数分沢沿いに進んだ後、さらに沢沿いに進む道から分かれ、古道は右に大きく曲がって沢から離れる。勾配がきつくなる。杉林の中を行く。これは人工林だろう。途中長い石垣を乗り越える。沢から離れて十数分で、左に向けて山腹を進む。森が切れて11時32分、富士古道との鞍部に着く。草原の峠は、見晴らしがよい。正面には磺嘴山が近い。右は大尖山が迫っている。

林市古道・富士古道の峠から見る磺嘴山

大尖山山頂

峠からは右にとり、大尖山を登る。茅の中の急坂が始まる。幸いに道筋ははっきりしているが、かなり急である。藪こぎの登り10分ほどで、振り返ると左に先ほどいた石梯嶺やその奥の七星山が見える。この角度からの眺めは初めてで新鮮だ。更に藪こぎを続け11時51分、基石のある大尖山頂上（標高637m）につく。周囲は草で展望がない。基石のある場所から少し上に道が進む。これを行き、そこにある大岩の上によじ登る。すると360度遮るもののない大展望が広がった。大きな山容の磺嘴山の右遠くには大海原が、目を凝らせば野柳の半島が見える。その更に右方向には基隆與が浮かんでる。瑞芳の山々も見える。目を反対側に移せば、五指山から風櫃嘴を越え石梯嶺へ連なる稜線、その右奥には七星山と小觀音山が続く。近くには大尖後山が大きい。

大尖山から見る磺嘴山と萬里の方向のパノラマ、右端遠方は瑞芳の山々

大尖山から杏林山、石梯嶺から七星山方向を見る、帽子の向こうに見える大きな山は大尖後山

大尖山から峠へ戻る、背後は大尖山

大尖山頂上からは、稜線を進む道があるが藪こぎがずっと続くようなので、往路を十数分で下って鞍部に戻る。そこから右に富士古道を歩き始める。富士とは日本的な名前だが、もともと大尖山が富士山の様に見えるとうことから、その近くにある草原などが富士坪と呼ばれるようになったということである。麓からは牛をつれてこうした草原に来ていたそうだ。富士古道は富士坪古道とも言われる。富士古道には、防迷線というロープが地上に張られている。ところどころ土にうまったりして見えないところもあるが、霧の草原で道に迷わないようにするためのものである。森の中の古道を数分進み、12時25分草原に飛び出る。風も吹き抜けていき、日なたでも暑さを感じない。草原で昼食休憩をとる。眼下は鹿堀坪の谷、そして右には大尖山東峰の尾根が下ってい。富士古道はこの峰の向こう側を麓に下っていく。

草原で休憩、左の山は大尖山

草原の道を行く防迷線のロープが路面をはう

13時、やって来た十数名の登山パーティと入れ替わりで古道を下リ始める。森の中をゆるい下りが続く。13時8分、草原に出る。一本の大木のところで、道が別れる。左に行く道は鹿堀坪の谷へ下る道、直進する道は大尖山東峰へ、我々は右の道を進む。ここには道標はないので、自分で地図を確認する必要がある。道を進むと、ところどころ防迷線ロープが現れ、間違っていないことが確認できる。草原の端までやってくる。ここが磺嘴山や大尖山の最後の見納めだ。左に東峰への道をわけ、13時17分、道は谷へ向けて下り始める。沢音が聞こえ始める。沢を渡り急坂を下る。13時30分、土地公のある分岐へ来る。右から瑞泉古道が合流する。ここの土地公は、石板を箱状に組み立てもので、他で見かける廟の形を模した祠に比べると簡素だ。古道上での最後の休憩を取る。

瑞泉古道との分岐部にある土地公

右がもともとの富士古道という説明の分岐部

古道は間もなく左に道を分ける。東峰の山腹を進み鹿堀坪へ続く道だ。幅広な尾根上を進む富士古道は道幅もあり、実に良い道だ。瑞泉古道との分岐から約20分ほどで、右に谷に下っていく道を分岐する。大きな表示板には、こちらが本来の富士古道と記してある。尾根上の道をそのまま進む。確かに、こちらの方は道が狭くなり普通の登山者が歩く道のような感じだ。尾根幅も狭くなる。尾根から右に山腹を下り始め、竹林脇を過ぎるとまもなく、古道も終わりだ。左奥に校舎のような建物が見える。木製の道標が現れ古道は終了だ。道標には富士坪、大尖山まで300mとなっているが、これは誤りだ。

富士古道入口、左に舗装路を進む

個人が財産を投じて整備した石階段

舗装路を左に進む。大坪小学校溪底分校は廃校になって久しいようだ。今は民間に貸し出されている。そのすぐ下で道が分岐する。右はそのまま北28郷道へ下る。左の道を行く。道脇に2003年に建立された富士古道の石碑がある。左の道は今は舗装されているが、進むと行き止まりになる。大きな土地公の祠がある。その脇から石階段の道が下っていく。土地の人が私財を投じて整備したという石の説明板がある。今は草に半分埋もれているが、現在の北28郷道が整備されるまでは、この道が使われていたのだと思う。これも富士古道の一部になるのだろうか。下っていくと郷道と合流する部分に、別の大きな富士古道の石碑が立っている。こちらは1999年と刻まれている。14時33分、残りは車道をバス停まで下るだけである。

北28郷道を歩く

左に北28郷道を歩き始める。初めは少し登り気味に行く。陽明山国家公園の看板を通り過ぎる。日差しは強いが、気持ち良い風が吹いていき、暑さは感じない。交通量も少なく、気が楽だ。つづら折りの道を進む。今では倒されてしまっているところも多い蒋介石の銅像が立っている。15時3分、大坪方向からの道と合流する香員林を通り過ぎる。谷を挟んで右に五指山から連なってくる連峰が近くなる。右から崁腳からの道を合わせ、15時23分崁腳国小のバス停に到着する。15時40分、789番バスがやって来た。数分の乗車後、萬里橋頭バス停で下車。少し歩いて953番バス停へ行く。他のメンバーは、別のバスで帰途につく。16時7分、筆者の953番バスがやって来た。

崁腳國小バス停に着いた

今回の歩行距離は約13.4km、行動時間6時間40分ほどである。歩行距離の内約3.5kmは、車道だ。萬里から基隆を回らず直接高速道路で台北に行くバス路線が出来たので、この地域も思ったほど遠くない。実際、萬里乗車から台北市内下車まで1時間足らずであった。山道の状態は、国家公園管理の道は勿論のこと、古道もしっかり歩かれて状態はよい。レベルはクラス1~3である。一方今回は下りがメインの歩きで、登攀も累計で600m強だ。体力的にもクラス3である。ルートの組合わせを考える必要があるが、草原も通りすぎるよい場所である。

2015年4月5日 新店獅子頭山 Mt. Lion head of Xindian

Vew of Shizitoushan from Guanshiping, Lion head, body and tail

新店獅子頭山は過去数回訪れている、馴染みの山である。以前は、別の山との縦走を兼ねての通過点であったが、今回はこの山だけの登山だ。それは、同行するメンバーに獅子頭山に点在する日本統治時代の遺跡などを案内し、また展望を楽しむという手頃なハイキングでの山行である。以前、別の山行で一緒に歩いたカナダ人の山仲間に以前約束していたことの実現でもある。

=====================================

A round trip to visit all sites of interest

Hiking elevation profile

F707 free bus just arrived at the trail entrance

Mt. Shizitoushan (獅子頭山 meaning Lion head) is located south of Xindian (新店) district of New Taipei City. With an elevation of 864m it has a primary triangulation marker on its top. When topographic maps were being created, they designated several mountain peaks for their triangular measurement. The primary mark means that the widest angle of view can be attained from the point. There are only five primary triangular markers in the northern Taiwan while the secondary and subordinate markers are many. Mt. Shizitoushan is one of the five. It was several decades ago when the marker was placed on the top and obstructive vegetation has long grown since then, yet the peak still offers a good command of view for the direction of Taipei.

Guard camp

Memorial stone (replica)

Climbing the ladder

The mountain played an important role twice in the history of early Japanese occupation era (1895 - 1945); first in the anti-Japanese fight by Chinese people and territorial conflict with Taiya aborigine tribes (泰雅族).  The geology and its very steep slope provided a good defensive advantage to anti-Japanese insurgents. They camped on the mountain and fought their last fight. After the anti-Japanese movements were quelled around the turn of the century, the government put more efforts in development of Taiwan's resources. One of the important products of the time was camphor made from camphor trees. The more camphor trees were planted on mountains and more people came in for production of camphor, the more territorial disputes happened.  Aboriginal people had long lived in the mountains and hunt for plays for centuries. The new comers in their eyes were invaders to their land and they of course defended the land and killed those new comers. As the development of mountain resources advanced, the government set up a border (隘勇線) between the aboriginal territory and the rest. Guard camps were established along the border line and Mt. Shizitoushan had an important station near its top. Ruins of these historic sites remain around the top of the mountain.

Panorama view from the deck above the first ladder

The hiking to Mt. Shizitoushan is an easy one particularly after the local government improved the trails and associated facilities a few years ago. A free bus F707 shuttles between the Xindian district office and the trail entrance on weekends. Five of us gathered in front of the district office around 8:10 and take a 8:30 service. The bus has only a maximum capacity of twenty passengers and no standing is allowed on the hilly road up to the trail entrance. You would better get there earlier to make sure of your seat on the bus. When our bus comes on time, there are almost twenty passengers.  The bus crosses Xindian River and climbs the Xintan (新潭路) all the way to the highest point.

Another panorama view from the deck above the second ladder

Observation deck of highest point, many holes on the floor

A little after 9:00 we arrive at the trail entrance. There are a few cars parked around it. Under such nice weather many hikers love to come. At 9:15 we start climbing the wooden staircase that leads to a good hiking trail from its top.  There are a couple of steep climbs but the rest are moderate incline. In about twenty minutes we come to a flat field called Guanshiping (觀獅平, meaning viewing lion field). Red azalea flowers are in full bloom at the edge of the field. A massive volume of the peak is just in front of us. It represents a lion head. On the right of it a body of a lion lies with a trailing end called Shiwei (獅尾, meaning a lion tail). We have a good view of BigTaipei area from the observation deck built at the edge of the field.

Azalea flowers besides the trail

The very steep trail starts at the end of the field. It soon changes to an almost vertical wooden ladder. A boy of 7 or 8 years old is climbing just ahead of us. It looks precarious but once you start climbing it is pretty secured and just like climbing a normal ladder. We come to a small deck after the ladder climb where we have a good view of the mountains around us. The Guanshiping is now just at our foot. We go up two more ladders and keep ascending. A steep climb is now over and a good trail lies in front of us leading further up. We come to a big old camphor tree with an sign board at its side. It explains how important camphor trees were in the old days and all conflict with the aborigines started because of the camphor. We further go up and come to an observation deck of the highest point at 10:15. We have a break here as we have walked for an hour. The deck is rather in sad shape. Floor wood plates are broken at some spots and holes are open. It looks like no maintenance job being done for many years.

View from the highest point

Deck by the memorial stone

We head for our next point of interests after a few minutes of rest.  In two or three minutes we come to a junction and take left. As we go down azalea flowers are blooming on the side of trail. We go down for a matter of a few minutes and come to another deck where a memorial stone is placed. There are two stones, one original of 1903 and one replica made a few years ago. The original stone stands just at the edge of the place and its front faces a valley. It is difficult to read inscription on the front and I assume it it the reason why they made a replica. The memorial stone was elected to commemorate solders and policemen died on duty during the fights with aborigines.

Trail to the camp ruin

There is a trail going straight on the mountain ridge. This one leads to Mt. Xiongkongshan (熊空山) of Sanxia (三峽). We just take right and go down to a valley. It is rather slippery and aiding ropes are affixed. We come down to the bottom. There is no water today but this is where solders of the camp above took water in the past. We then go up a little and come to a site of old camp ruin. There used to be a camp house for solders to guard the border line. Now only stone walls remain. The whole ruin is now under a permanent protective roof built a few years ago by the local government. I ponder how those solders felt when they were alone here in a remote mountain and faced a constant threat of attack from aborigines.

Trench site

There are two trails from the ruin. One on the right leads to the top of the mountain and other going on the mountain side to the bandit cave. We take right one to go up. In a few minutes we come to a trail that goes on the top ridge of the mountain. There is another trail going down. We take it to down to an old well. It is said that this well of a 6 meters deep served those anti-Japanese fighters when they hid themselves up here almost 120 years ago. We go back up to the upper trail and pass by the trench site where insurgents fought their last war. Soon we reach the primary triangular marker at 10:49. Now it is surrounded with tall trees and you cannot have a view from this point.  There is a observation deck built at the side of a cliff. You can have a nice view from there.

The primary triangular marker 

Small bandit cave

We start descending on a ridge trail. We take left on on the first junction and right on the second. We come down to the small bandit cave. The small cave is said to have accommodated insurgents. Whey it is called bandit cave is that the insurgents later had to rob food and money from local residents after they were chased up here by the government forces and had no food and supply. We further go down and take left turn to Guanyindong (觀音洞).  This is a huge overhang rock and there are two small Buddhist statutes under it. People still come here and pray for god. Time is 11:10 and we have a break.

Guanyin dong cave

Big bandit cave

After 15 minutes of rest we resume our walk to the next point of interest, the big bandit cave. This cave is much bigger than the small one. It looks big enough to hold several people in it. The board next to the cave says that they placed a machine gun on the top of this cave to defend themselves. This is the last historical site today. We go down to Shiwei. We pass by a geologically interesting site, onion ring formation. Rocks of round layers just like onions are visible on the trail surface.  We walk down on a wide dirt road and come to Shiwei at 11:47.

Trail back to Guanshiping

We start on a paved road down and come to another trail entrance. A public toilet is just by the entrance. This trail goes along the side of the mountain and back to Guanshiping. It is said to be an old trail but wooden steps were built on it and does not look like an old trail. Some step plates are rotten and dangerous to step on. It goes up a while and starts little ups and downs. At 12:25 we are back at Guanshiping. We have completed a round trip earlier than I originally planned. The next F707 bus down the mountain leaves 13:50. We still have an hour and a half for it. We have a good long rest here and lunch. A little before 13:00 we start the final section of our hike today.  Just less than 15 minutes we are back at the trail entrance. We wait for the bus and it shows up on time. We are back at the district office by 14:20.

Going back to the trail entrance

We walked for four hours including breaks to cover approximately five kilometers. This hike was an easy one while they learned what the local history was like a century ago. This kind of hiking gives you another perspective, not just physically satisfying. I hope that more hikers find history and geography of the place you hike interesting. Mt. Shizitoushan is really rich in history and has challenging trails while you can finish in a matter of four hours. This route is recommended for all hikers. The trail and physical requirement is both level 2.